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Lifestyle

An Infallible Insider's Guide to Charleston

An Infallible Insider's Guide to Charleston
flourishfoundry
November 8, 2017
Nov. 8, 2017 10:20 a.m. ET
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White Point Garden, on the Charleston Battery.
White Point Garden, on the Charleston Battery. Photo: Brennan Wesley for The Wall Street Journal
An Infallible Insider’s Guide to Charleston
Illustration: FREEVECTORMAPS

IN AMERICAN terms, Charleston (founded 1670) is an ancient town, densely packed and well preserved. Lately, though, the new is mounting a healthy challenge to the old in the South Carolina metropolis. Six major airlines fly directly to what was once a poky airport. An excitable entrepreneurial spirit, celebrating products made in the south, has infused the “Holy City,” home to some 400 places of worship. Design shops are flourishing: You see the placard for Glenn Keyes Architects, specialists in historic preservation, hanging from many an under-renovation piazza. And at Fritz & Porter Design Collective, in an old cigar factory, 19th-century oil paintings share floorspace with the Shelter Collection’s 21st-century ceramics (5). Then there’s the food. In every setting from a converted antebellum home (Chez Nous) to an old gas station (Xiao Bao Biscuit), the culinary scene has turned humble cooks into local celebrities and is transforming the city’s upper peninsula, where not long ago, you’d only go to rent a U-Haul, into a destination in its own right. We asked four notable locals for their favorite things.

— Christian L. Wright


Touring Charleston, S.C.

Four clued-in locals share their favorite spots in town

 
 
The Dewberry Hotel occupies a former federal building built in 1964.
Brennan Wesley for The Wall Street Journal
1 of 22
•••••

THE WINE MERCHANT

Harry Root

Owner of Grassroots Wine and Rosé de Printemps

An Infallible Insider’s Guide to Charleston

SHELL FAME // Leon’s Oyster Shop

The grilled oysters at Leon’s are kind of classic NOLA style, garlicky, with lots of butter and cheese. 698 King St., leonsoystershop.com

HIT LIST // Charleston Grill

There are lots of fantastic wine lists in Charleston, but you’ll find the best one (and three advanced sommeliers) at Charleston Grill, a bit off the radar in the Belmond Charleston Place hotel. 224 King St., charlestongrill.com

SIXTIES SWIG // Living Room at the Dewberry Hotel

In a 1964 federal building that overlooks Marion Square. It’s so sexy and cool, you’ll feel like you’re on the set of Mad Men. 334 Meeting St., thedewberrycharleston.com

STOCK MARKET // Farmers Market

For brunch on Saturdays, visit the market downtown. There are six food-truck-style stands. I lean toward the Banh Mi. Marion Square, 329 Meeting St., charlestonfarmersmarket.com

Leon's grilled oysters
Leon’s grilled oysters Photo: Brennan Wesley for The Wall Street Journal

THE GALLERIST

An Infallible Insider’s Guide to Charleston

Ann Merck

Owner of Ann Long Fine Art

TIME WELL SPENT // Historic District

I particularly like the churchyards of St. Michael’s, St. Philip’s, the Unitarian Church and First Scots, and the working garden behind the 1772 Heyward- Washington House. 87 Church St.

SHOP TALK // King Street’s Antique Dealers

Stop in at Alexandra AD for Northern European pieces (156 King St., alexandrafrenchantiques.com), Tucker Payne for English and American (169 King St., tuckerpayneantiques.com) and at affable John Pope’s for his eclectic collection (180 King St., johnpopeantiques.com).

THE DISPLAY OF AFFECTION // The Gibbes Museum of Art

It’s home to 18th- and 19th-century Charleston furniture and not-to-be-missed portraits such as Childe Hassam’s “April (The Green Gown).” 135 Meeting St., gibbesmuseum.org

HIGH STANDARDS // RTW

At this jewel box of a designer boutique, you’re greeted by two standard poodles. 186 King St., rtwcharleston.com

The GIbbes Museum of Art
The GIbbes Museum of Art Photo: Brennan Wesley for The Wall Street Journal

THE COUNTRY SINGER

An Infallible Insider’s Guide to Charleston

Darius Rucker

Former frontman for Hootie & the Blowfish, just out with his fifth solo album, ‘When Was The Last Time’

SEA SONGS // The Windjammer

Local and some national bands come through. Being on the beach, sitting outside on that deck, it’s so cool. Have a wine and watch the sun go down. 1008 Ocean Blvd., Isle of Palms, the-windjammer.com.

I also like the Music Farm. I saw Toad the Wet Sprocket there. 32 Ann St., musicfarm.com.

VINYL TAP // Monster Music

It’s by the mall [in the West Ashley district]. It has new records but also a huge used selection. I got a Rave-Ups record and a Rainmakers’ record. Oh man, no one has those! 946 Orleans Rd., monstermusicsc.com

STAND AND DELIVER // Boiled Peanuts

It’s funny, I have a group of friends that always make me bring them boiled peanuts. They’re sold on stands on the side of the road, in somebody’s driveway. You can buy them anywhere.

BITE OF PASSAGE // FIG

The best place in town—amazing food and service. My favorite dish is the ricotta gnocchi and lamb Bolognese starter. If you can’t get a table, just go and sit at the bar at 5:30. 232 Meeting St., eatatfig.com

The Music Farm
The Music Farm Photo: Brennan Wesley for The Wall Street Journal

THE ATHLETE

An Infallible Insider’s Guide to Charleston

Shelby Rogers

Professional tennis player

FUN RUN // The Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge

I love running over the Ravenel Bridge, especially at sunrise. Some of the most spectacular views of Charleston can be seen from the span. cooperriverbridge.org

HIDE AND SEEK // Longitude Lane

There are these little alleys downtown with cobblestones and historical architecture along the way. I used to walk through one called Longitude Lane every week when I was in elementary school. It brings back a lot of great memories.

NO-RISK BISQUE // Magnolia’s

It’s excellent for brunch. Shrimp and grits, pimento cheese, blue crab bisque, crab cakes…you can’t go wrong. 185 East Bay St., magnoliascharleston.com

STRAW VOTE // Sweetgrass Baskets

They are handcrafted masterpieces. No two are alike. They’re absolutely gorgeous, a trademark souvenir from Charleston. 188 Meeting St., thecharlestoncitymarket.com/main/sweetgrass-baskets

Longitude Lane
Longitude Lane Photo: Brennan Wesley for The Wall Street Journal
Plus, Don’t Miss:
Goat. Sheep. Cow.
Goat. Sheep. Cow. Photo: Brennan Wesley for The Wall Street Journal

White Point Garden: Stroll past the gnarled oaks along paths paved with oyster shells. charlestonparksconservancy.org

Goat. Sheep. Cow.: A little fromagerie that opened downtown in 2011 has expanded to a brasserie on the upper peninsula with a marble bar; excellent wines and retail, too. 804 Meeting St. goatsheepcow.com

The Charleston Museum: Founded in 1773 and opened to the public in 1824, it’s one of the country’s oldest museums. 360 Meeting St., charlestonmuseum.org

Rodney Scott’s BBQ: Rodney is known as a pork guy, but his spicy ribeye sandwich is worth a detour. 1011 King St., rodneyscottsbbq.com

Wentworth Mansion: For some old-world hotel grandeur, get one of the rooms with a chandelier and fireplace. From about $ 330 a night, wentworthmansion.com

Corrections & Amplifications

An earlier version of this article incorrectly spelled the name of a restaurant in Charleston. The restaurant is Xiao Bao Biscuit, not Xao Bao Biscuit. (November 8, 2017)

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